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Satsuma Biru

Ikatlah Ilmu dengan Menuliskannya - Ali bin Abi Thalib -

The whole trip was originally arranged by my Japanese friend after I complained that our graduation ceremony is cancelled due to Covid-19 prevention. I felt that the last one month of my stay in Kagoshima is just wasting my time but couldn't do anything because my home return flight ticket was booked in the end of March by MEXT. Celebrating graduation trip using public transportation is still worrying so that she made a trip plan to Nagasaki and Saga which she drive the car by herself.

After visiting Shimabara and Unzen City on the first day, we went to Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown and stayed for a night in Dormy Inn Nagasaki. The hotel building is just in front of Shinchi Chinatown Bridge which is famous for tourist attraction. I have plenty time to walk around Chinatown in the night and early in the morning. This place usually attracts a lot of people that become so quiet as the effect of pandemic. Some  restaurants still open in normal working hours.

Dinner in Kaniya: Onigiri Special Outlet 

Since my friend know that I eat only halal food, she picked Onigiri special outlet so that I can choose by myself what I can eat. Here we can order by custom. There are so many types of onigiri, i.e. seaweed (nori), ume boshi (plum), tuna katsuo, etc; many Soups, i.e. Goto Udon, Miso Soup, Shell Soup, etc; Ochazuke; drink; and common menu. The price quite cheap and you pay what you eat, so we can order more if we still want to eat. My favorite menu is Konbu Oden, it was so delicious that I ordered many times. The menu and price can be accessed in Kaniya website. 

Nagasaki Peace Park

This is an open area that we can visit anytime. We went there using tram from Shinchi Chinatown tram station to Peace Park tram station which cost only 130 Yen (in March 2021). After crossing the street from the tram station, there is stairway or we can choose elevator in the right side. The Peace Fountain is the gate that lead to the Peace Park walking area. 

In the Peace Fountain stone written a poem that means "I was thirsty beyond my capacity. The water is so oily, but I wanted so badly so I drank it". It was sad message from SachikoYamaguchi, a nine years old girl at the time of bombing. Many peace symbols was donated from countries around the world docorated along the way to Peace Statue as the end mark of this park.

The Peace Statue was designed by Seibo Kitamura to memorize the people in Nagasaki who died during atomic bombing in 9 August, 1945. There are a lot of crane origami hanging surround the Peace Statue donated from visiting schoolchildren and the elderly as symbols of peace. 

In the old Japanese legend, anyone who makes Senbazuru(千羽鶴)that literally means 1000-crane origami held together by strings, will be granted a wish by the gods such as happy life, wealth, or cured from the illness, etc makes  it popular to give senbazuru as a gift so special friend or family.

More information about Peace Park can be accessed in Nagasaki Peace website.

Hypocenter Park

Walked to the southern part of Peace Park, there is a Hypocenter Park located. The Hypocenter Cenotaph is the exact area location below where atomic bomb exploded in the air. There also stand the wall remained from Urakami Cathedral (half of the wall is relocated to the Atomic Bomb Museum) after bombing. The Urakami Cathedral itself rebuilt in the new location around 500 m from the hypocenter site.

The stone lanterns which remained standing at Shotokuji Temple (1.5 km from hypocenter) after explosion, then these lanterns was donated and relocated to this park. The ground level at the time of bombing is left as it is and stored in glass so that visitors can still see the actual conditions of soil surface appearance when the bomb exploded.

A lot of trees grow here and sakura also blooming when I visited this place on March 2021. Kindergarten students playing around with their teachers in this park. With todays situation, no one ever imagine that around 70s years ago this place was devastated by atomic bomb explosion.

Atomic Bomb Museum

Its not far from the Hypocenter Park, we can just walking to visit Atomic Bomb Museum. The admission fee is 200 Yen for adult and they will give us guide brochure which available in many language. Taking picture is allowed inside the museum, but I felt a little bit inconvenient for taking so often. 

Once we enter the museum, we will welcomed by the sentence of hope that "Nagasaki supposed to be the last place exposed by atomic bomb" as well as unforgettable memories after explosion. Half part of wall remains from Urakami Cathedral is relocated here assembled with other memorable stuff such as kindergarten bicycle which was buried with the child after explosion, students bento box, helmet, etc. Each stuff has their own sad story behind so then donated to this museum.

The atomic bomb structure and the explosion effect is clearly explained in this museum. The explosion effect caused by radiation to the environment and human disease years after explosion also discussed which remind us how disastrous it was. The living witness of atomic bomb testimony also documented in video. And the last part of this museum is about peace movement in Nagasaki itself and also in the world.

This museum explained detail about atomic bomb and world war II which Japan take the part in it. Most of information translated in English, Chinese and Korean, so don't worry if you don't understand Japanese.


Lunch in Yossou Washoku Restaurant

This classic Japanese restaurant offer various menu which ranging from 1500 - 7000 Yen. The choices are sets of chawanmushi, makunouchi, teishoku, sushi, and single dish. The menu can be checked in their Yossou website that available in English version. 

Because I like chawanmushi, so I choosed chawanmushi set which consist of conger eel, shrimp, chicken, shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, ginkgo nuts, bamboo shoots, kamaboko, etc. It was big size and delicious meal.

Meganebashi Bridge

It's called meganebashi, literally means spectacles bridge, because it's look like a pair of spectacles when reflected to the water. Meganebashi is one of the old stone bridge in Japan built over Nakashima river by Chinese monk living in Kofukuji temple. Today, only pedestrian allowed  to cross over this bridge.

Near Meganebashi, there is a confectionary that sell Chinese snacks like Yori-yori and also some souvenirs.

Oura Church

Oura is one of several churches built after the crucified Twenty-six Martyrs of Japan. It is said to be the oldest church in Japan that was also the first Western-style building in Japan designated as National Treasure. 

I did not enter this church due to time limitation of my visit in Nagasaki City, but if you are interested in the history of missionaries and merchants from Portuguese and Spain, as well as the crucified of Christian in Japan, you may get a lot of information by visiting this church. The entrance admission is 1000 Yen for adult.


Glover Garden

A few step ahead from Oura Church, the Glover Garden is located. In this garden, there is a residence of Thomas B. Glover, a businessman that hugely contributed to the modernization of Japan. Glover garden that offers beautiful scenery from Nagasaki port was donated by Nagasaki Shipyard of Mitsubishi Heavy Industries to Nagasaki City and be opened for public.

The admission fee is 610 Yen for adult. More information can be accessed in website of Glover Garden.

Dejima

My friend suggested to visit this place as the last destination because of the operating hours is longer than any tourist area (from 10.00 to 21.00). The location is just 10 minutes walk from Shinchi Chinatown. The admission fee is 520 Yen for adult, then visitor can get pamphlet and a lot of information by strolling around.

Dejima, literally means exit island, is an human artificial island in Nagasaki port aimed to control missionaries activity of Portuguese from Japanese. After Portuguese was expelled, Dejima become the center of Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie - VOC). In current Dejima, all of the past activities from East Asia is explained, including the sugar supply chain from Indonesia to Japan.

More information about can be accessed in Nagasaki Dejima.


I did my dinner in Chinatown again before continue the trip to Saga Perfecture. 


You may interested to read articles below:

  1. Menjelajahi Kota Nagasaki dalam Sehari
  2. Perlu Diketahui Sebelum ke Kota Nagasaki


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Perfektur Nagasaki secara geografis terletak di Pulau Kyushu sebelah barat dengan wilayah yang terbentang di sekitar Teluk Omura, hingga kepulauan Iki dan Tsushima di Selat Korea dan Kepulauan Goto di Laut Cina Timur. Akses menuju perfektur Nagasaki dari luar pulau dapat ditempuh melalui jalur udara menuju Nagasaki Airport, jalur laut menggunakan kapal ferry menuju pelabuhan-pelabuhan terdekat, jalur darat menggunakan bus ataupun kereta Shinkansen dengan terlebih dahulu transit di Stasiun Hakata (Fukuoka).

Selama politik isolasi Jepang, Perfektur Nagasaki merupakan satu-satunya jalur perdagangan dan pertukaran informasi Jepang dengan dunia luar. Sehingga tidak mengherankan jika di Nagasaki dapat ditemukan Cina Town maupun beberapa Situs Kristen Tersembunyi yang telah dinyatakan sebagai Situs Warisan Dunia UNESCO.

Karena cakupan wilayahnya yang luas dan preferensi transportasi yang berbeda, akan sangat sulit untuk bisa mengunjungi Perfektur Nagasaki secara keseluruhan dalam satu hari. Berikut saya berikan opsi itinerary kunjungan ke Nagasaki berdasarkan pengalaman saya sesuai dengan lokasi dan preferensi tempat wisata: 
  1. Kota Nagasaki, disarankan bagi pengunjung yang tertarik pada sejarah dan budaya. Lokasi yang dapat dikunjungi antara lain Taman Perdamaian Nagasaki, Museum Bom Atom Nagasaki, Gereja Oura, Dejima, Glover Garden, Dejima, Jembatan Meganebashi, China Town, dll. Tranportasi antar lokasi dapat ditempuh dengan City Tram.
  2. Kota Shimabara dan Kota Unzen, disarankan bagi pengunjung yang tertarik pada sejarah dan tempat wisata alam. Lokasi wisata yang dapat dikunjungi antara lain Samurai Residents, Shimabara Castle, dan Unzen Hotsprings. Tranportasi antar lokasi dapat ditempuh dengan mobil pribadi atau bus kota.
  3. Kota Sasebo, disarankan bagi penikmat tanaman, atraksi, iluminasi dan berbagai hiburan lainnya. Lokasi wisata yang terkenal adalah Huis ten Bosch. 
Itinerary secara spesifik terkait lokasi wisata, akomodasi dan transportasi akan saya jelaskan di artikel terpisah. Link artikel bisa diklik pada masing-masing nama kota di atas. 

English article can be found here. 
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Kota Nagasaki adalah ibu kota dari Nagasaki Perfecture yang memainkan peran strategis selama isolasi nasional, karena di sini diletakkan satu-satunya pelabuhan yang terbuka secara hukum untuk luar negeri yang diizinkan oleh Shogun. Selama Revolusi Industri Meiji Jepang, Nagasaki memiliki 8 situs yang turut mempromosikan modernisasi Jepang. Nagasaki juga menjadi saksi kekejaman perang dunia ke-2 saat bom atom dijatuhkan oleh sekutu dan meluluhlantakkan kota tersebut. Kemudian, kota tersebut berangsur-angsur pulih untuk menunjukkan bahwa perang membawa kesengsaraan pada pihak yang menang maupun kalah dan perdamaian manusia adalah kunci persatuan yang selama ini diidam-idamkan dunia.

Menjadikan Kota Nagasaki sebagai tujuan wisata adalah pilihan yang tepat jika mempertimbangkan keterbatasan waktu dan kemudahan akses transportasi tanpa mengurangi esensi perjalanan itu sendiri. Berikut saya tuliskan beberapa informasi yang dapat digunakan sebagai referensi perjalanan wisata anda.

 

Daftar Isi

  • Akses Menuju Nagasaki City
  • Lokasi Penginapan
  • Transportasi Dalam Kota
  • Kuliner dan Souvenir
  • Itinerary Saya

 

Akses Menuju Nagasaki City

1.        Dari Nagasaki Airport ke Nagasaki Station

Terdapat dua jalur bus menuju Nagasaki Station, yaitu via Dejima Road dengan durasi perjalanan 43 menit dan via Showa-Machi dengan durasi perjalanan 55 menit. Tarif perjalanan adalah sebesar 1000 Yen (500 Yen untuk anak). Informasi lebih lengkap dapat diperoleh dari website Nagasaki Airport. 

2.        Dari Hakata Station ke Nagasaki Station

Perjalanan dapat ditempuh dengan kereta JR Kamome Limited Express dengan waktu tempuh 1 jam 59 menit dengan tarif perjalanan 4800 Yen. Informasi lebih lengkap dapat diperoleh dari website JR Kyushu.

3.        Dari Kagoshima/Kumamoto City 

Perjalanan dengan bus dari Kagoshima City dapat ditempuh selama 5 jam 30 menit, sedangkan dari Kumamoto City ditempuh sekitar 4 jam. Reservasi tiket dan informasi lebih lengkap tentang bus tersebut dapat diperoleh dari website Kagoshima Tourism Bus atau Rindo-go Kyushu Highway. 

Perjalanan menggunakan mobil pribadi akan lebih cepat jika menyeberang melalui rute ferry dari Kumamoto menuju ke Shimabara City (1 jam perjalanan), dilanjutkan kembali perjalanan darat ke Nagasaki City.

 

Lokasi Penginapan

Sebagai pertimbangan tempat penginapan, akan lebih baik jika terletak di lokasi strategis seperti pusat kota yang dekat dengan akses transportasi, convenient store maupun restoran. Berdasarkan pertimbangan tersebut, berikut lokasi penginapan yang saya rekomendasikan: 

1.      Nagasaki Shinchi (Chinatown)

Selain Chinatown sendiri adalah lokasi wisata, banyak pilihan restoran dan pusat oleh-oleh di sini. Akses transportasi juga mudah karena dekat dengan tram stop. Lokasi ini sangat crowded, tetapi poin terpenting yang saya garis bawahi adalah saya bisa jalan berkali-kali di Chinatown di malam maupun siang hari dengan suasana berbeda. Untuk menuju Dejima, kita cukup berjalan kaki selama 10 menit dari sini.

2.          Meganebashi

Hampir mirip dengan Chinatown, di Meganebashi juga lokasinya strategis dekat dengan tram stop, restoran dengan berbagai pilihan menu, dan pusat oleh-oleh. Lokasi ini juga memungkinkan kita menikmati suasana di sekitar jembatan Meganebashi baik di malam ataupun siang hari. Pada lokasi yang menjadi pusat kerumunan, saya selalu menyempatkan waktu di pagi hari untuk menikmati suasana dan mendapatkan gambar tanpa banyak orang berlalu-lalang. Kelebihan lokasi ini adalah tidak terlalu padat penduduk, sehingga udaranya terasa lebih segar.

3.          Urakami

Terletak di pusat kota dan dekat dengan Taman Perdamaian dan Museum Bom Atom di Nagasaki. Dekat dengan akses tram stop, meskipun pilihan restorannya tidak sevariatif dua lokasi sebelumnya. Lokasi ini bisa dipertimbangkan apabila keesokan harinya akan memulai perjalanan dari Taman Perdamaian dan Museum Bom Atom terlebih dahulu.

 

Transportasi Dalam Kota

 

Terdapat dua opsi transportasi dalam kota di Nagasaki City, yaitu tram dan bus. Pembayaran dapat dilakukan secara tunai maupun menggunakan IC-Card (semua jenis IC-Card Jepang dapat digunakan. 

 

Berikut penjelasan detail dari masing-masing jenis transportasi: 

·      Tram

Fare untuk sekali naik tram adalah 140 Yen untuk dewasa. Jika berencana mengelilingi Nagasaki City seharian, akan lebih menguntungkan untuk membeli One Day Ticket seharga 600 Yen untuk dewasa dan 300 Yen untuk anak. One Day Ticket dapat diperoleh di Tourist Information Centers, hotel front desks yang terletak disepanjang jalur tram, dan sales office. Informasi lebih lengkap tentang one day ticket dapat diperoleh di website Nagasaki Electric Tramway.

·      Bus

Fare untuk bus tergantung pada jarak tempuh. Sama seperti tram, untuk mengelilingi Nagasaki City selama seharian akan lebih menguntungkan membeli One Day Ticket seharga 500 Yen untuk dewasa dan 250 Yen untuk anak. Ticket dapat diperoleh di Nagasaki City Tourist Information Center (Nagasaki Station), Coco Walk Bus Center, Nagasaki Bus Tourism Headquarter (Nameshi), Nagasaki Bus General Service Center (Shinchi), dan Nagasaki Bus Sales Office. Informasi lebih lengkap tentang one day ticket dapat diperoleh di website Nagasaki Bus.


Kuliner dan Souvenir

  • Beberapa kuliner terkenal di Nagasaki antara lain Chambon, Sara Udon, Kakuni Manju, Toruko Rice, Goto Udon, dan lain-lain.
  • Makanan yang bisa dijadikan oleh-oleh (souvenir) khas Nagasaki antara lain yori-yori dan castella.  


Informasi diatas saya tulis berdasarkan referensi perjalanan saya sebelum mengunjungi Nagasaki City. Untuk informasi tentang obyek wisata lainnya di Nagasaki City dapat merujuk ke  Nagasaki City Official Tourism Website.


Read more:

English version of this article can be found here. 

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The 69th Ohara Festival was held on Cultural Day (November 3, 2020). Ohara matsuri is a very famous festival in Kagoshima City that usually included so many dancers. But, due to the spread of Corona, this year event was only held for two hours. Visitors who want to get closer with the dancer would be checked for body temperature and should apply disinfectant.



Taking pictures with all ambassador in front of Kagoshima City Hall before the event
 
I participated in this event as part of Kagoshima City Tourism Ambassadors 2020 after routinely two weeks of dance preparation. There are three types of dance we performed during Ohara Festival: Ohara Bushi, Shibuya Ondo, and Hanya Bushi. It was simple dances, but without practice really confusing. 

Dance around Tenmonkan street

Since the participants were from many institutions, schools, etc so that Tenmonkan street becomes very crowd. The tram and bus were stopped, everyone can enjoy the festive festival. 



Aftermatch


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 Seventh July celebrated as Tanabata Festival, Japanese Festival that originating from Chinese Qixi Festival. It celebrates the meeting of deities Orihime and Hikoboshi. The Milky Way separates these lovers, and they only allowed to meet once a year on the seventh day of seven.


Tanzaku hanging on bamboo tree

On that occasion, people write their wish in a paper (called tanzaku), then hanging in the bamboo tree. In the night of seventh when the deities meet, they may grants your wish.

Last year I joined an event in KIEX in making tanzaku calligraphy as well as the paper decorations with other foreigners living in Kagoshima. Tanzaku and the decorations then hanging in the bamboo tree. We take this picture for memories, because that was my last chance joining this kind of event in Kagoshima.

Me and other foreigners

After we finished calligraphy, making some origamis, then we ate soumen, kind of Japanese noodle that usually eaten during summer. 

Soumen and my tanzaku 

After finishing the events, we all take the pictures outside with our tanzaku. Can you read my handwritting anw? ;) But we hope that the deities will grant our wishes tonight ;)

Then we moved the tanzaku outside

 
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About me

About Me

I am Izza, a plant scientist who likes traveling. Mostly I post about cultural exchanges and my travel experiences to historical sites and natural sceneries.

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